I-Moisturizer

"Umuzwa" obaluleke kakhulu wokuguga kwesikhumba ukoma, okubonakala ngokuqukethwe okuphansi komswakama kanye nokungabi namandla okugcina umswakama. Isikhumba siba crunchy, mahhadlahhadla futhi flakes. Into ene-hygroscopic kakhulu ngenjongo yokugcwalisa umswakama wesikhumba nokuvimbela ukoma ibizwa ngokuthi i-humectant. Indlela yokuthambisa isikhumba, enye ukumuncwa komswakama; enye ingqimba yokuvimbela (ungqimba lokuzivikela) oluvimbela umswakama wangaphakathi ukuthi ungachithi. Ukungena komswakamo kwalesi singqimba sokuvimbela uma umsebenzi wawo ujwayelekile kungu-2.9g/( m2 h-1)±1.9g/( m2 h-1), futhi uma ulahleka ngokuphelele, kuba ngu-229g/( m2 h-1) ±81g/( m2 h-1), okubonisa ukuthi ungqimba lokuvimbela lubaluleke kakhulu.

Ngokwendlela yokuthambisa, kuye kwasungulwa izinhlobo ezihlukahlukene zokuthambisa ezinemiphumela emihle. Ama-humectants asetshenziswa kakhulu ahlanganisa i-polyols, ama-amides, i-lactic acid ne-sodium lactate, i-sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, i-glucolipid, i-collagen, i-chitin derivatives nokunye.

(1) Ama-Polyols
I-Glycerin iwuketshezi olune-viscous olumnandi kancane, oluxubene emanzini, i-methanol, i-ethanol, i-n-propanol, i-isopropanol, i-n-butanol, i-isobutanol, i-sec-butanol, i-tert-amyl alcohol, i-ethylene glycol, i-propylene glycol ne-Phenol nezinye izinto. I-Glycerin iyimpahla eluhlaza ethambisayo esetshenziswayo yohlobo lwe-O/W-emulsification system ezimonyoni. Kuphinde kube yimpahla ebalulekile yokugcoba okokugcoba. Ingasetshenziswa futhi njenge-moisturizer ye-pastes ene-powder, enomphumela othambile futhi wokugcoba esikhumbeni. Ngaphezu kwalokho, i-glycerin iphinde isetshenziswe kabanzi emikhiqizweni ye-toothpaste powder namafutha e-hydrophilic, futhi iyingxenye ebalulekile yemikhiqizo ye-hydrogel.
I-Propylene glycol iwuketshezi olungenambala, olusobala, olune-viscous kancane, oluyi-hygroscopic. Ixubene emanzini, i-acetone, i-ethyl acetate ne-chloroform, futhi incibilike otshwaleni ne-ether. I-Propylene glycol isetshenziswa kakhulu ezimonyoni. Ingasetshenziswa njenge-ejenti yokumanzisa kanye ne-moisturizer yemikhiqizo ehlukahlukene e-emulsified kanye nemikhiqizo ewuketshezi. Ingasetshenziswa njengesithambisi kanye ne-moisturizer yokuxubha amazinyo uma ihlanganiswe ne-glycerol ne-sorbitol. Ingasetshenziswa njengesilawuli somswakama emikhiqizweni yedayi yezinwele.
I-1,3-Butanediol iwuketshezi lwe-viscous olungenambala futhi olungenaphunga olunokugcinwa komswakama omuhle, lungakwazi ukumunca amanzi alingana no-12.5% ​​(RH50%) noma u-38.5% (RH80%) wesisindo sawo., Okucasula kancane kune-glycerin ne-propylene glycol. Ingasetshenziswa kabanzi njenge-moisturizer kuma-lotions, okhilimu, ama-lotions kanye nezixubho. Ngaphezu kwalokho, i-1,3-butanediol inomphumela we-antibacterial. I-Sorbitol iyimpushana emhlophe ecwebezelayo eyenziwe ngeglucose njengento eluhlaza. Inokunambitheka okumnandi kancane. I-Sorbitol incibilika kalula emanzini, incibilika kancane ku-ethanol, i-acetic acid, i-phenol ne-acetamide, kodwa ayincibiliki kwezinye izinyibilikisi eziphilayo. I-Sorbitol ine-hygroscopicity enhle, ukuphepha, nokuzinza okuhle kwamakhemikhali. Isetshenziswe kabanzi emkhakheni wamakhemikhali wansuku zonke. Ingasetshenziswa njengempahla eluhlaza yama-non-ionic surfactants futhi ingasetshenziswa njengokhilimu ku-toothpaste kanye nezimonyo.
I-Polyethylene glycol iyi-polymer encibilika emanzini elungiselelwe ukungezwa kancane kancane kwe-ethylene oxide namanzi noma i-ethylene glycol. Ingaphinda incibilike kuzincibilikisi zemvelo ezipholile ezipholile futhi inochungechunge lwesisindo samangqamuzana aphansi kuya kwamaphakathi. Uhlobo lomkhiqizo lungasetshenziswa njengesithako se-colloidal esincibilika emanzini kuzimonyo ezihlukahlukene. I-Polyethylene glycol isetshenziswa kakhulu ezimbonini zezimonyo nezithaka imithi ngenxa yezakhiwo zayo ezinhle kakhulu njengokuncibilika kwamanzi, ukungabi namandla komzimba, ubumnene, ukuthambisa, ukuthambisa isikhumba, nokuthambile. Isisindo esiphansi samangqamuzana i-polyethylene glycol inamandla okumunca nokugcina amanzi avela emkhathini, futhi yenziwe ngepulasitiki futhi ingasetshenziswa njenge-humectant; njengoba isisindo samangqamuzana esihlobene sikhula, i-hygroscopicity yayo yehla kakhulu. I-polyethylene glycol enesisindo esiphezulu se-molecular ingasetshenziswa kabanzi kumakhemikhali wansuku zonke, ekhemisi, e-textile, e-papermaking nakwezinye izimboni njenge-lubricant noma i-softener.

(2) I-Lactic acid ne-sodium lactate
I-Lactic acid iyi-asidi ephilayo etholakala kabanzi emvelweni. Iwumkhiqizo wokugcina kumetabolism yezinto eziphilayo ze-anaerobic. Iphephile futhi ayinabo ubuthi. I-Lactic acid iphinde ibe yi-asidi encibilikayo emanzini ku-natural moisturizing factor (NMF) ye-epidermis yomuntu, futhi okuqukethwe kwayo cishe ku-12%. I-Lactic acid ne-lactate ithinta ukwakheka kwezicubu zezinto eziqukethe amaprotheni, futhi ibe nemiphumela esobala yokwenza ipulasitiki nokuthambisa amaprotheni. Ngakho-ke, i-lactic acid ne-sodium lactate ingenza isikhumba sithambe, sivuvuke futhi sikhulise ukunwebeka. Kuyi-acidifier enhle kuzimonyo zokunakekela isikhumba. Iqembu le-carboxyl le-lactic acid molecule linobudlelwane obuhle bezinwele nesikhumba. I-sodium lactate iyi-moisturizer ephumelela kakhulu, futhi ikhono layo lokuthambisa linamandla kunezinto zokuthambisa zendabuko ezifana ne-glycerin. I-Lactic acid ne-sodium lactate zakha isisombululo se-buffer esingalungisa i-pH yesikhumba. Ezimonyoni, i-lactic acid ne-sodium lactate isetshenziswa kakhulu njengezimonyo nezithambisa isikhumba noma izinwele, izithambisi ze-asidi ukuze zilungise i-pH, okhilimu nezigcobo zokunakekela isikhumba, ama-shampoos nama-conditioner okunakekelwa kwezinwele neminye imikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwezinwele. Ingasetshenziswa futhi emikhiqizweni yokushefa kanye nezihlanzi.

(3) I-Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate
I-sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate (i-PCA-Na ngamafuphi) iwumkhiqizo wokubola wama-fibroin aggregates kungqimba lwe-epidermal granular. Okuqukethwe yisici semvelo sokuthambisa isikhumba cishe ku-12%. Umsebenzi wayo wokuphila ukwenza i-stratum corneum yesikhumba ithambe. Okuqukethwe okuncishisiwe kwe-sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate ku-stratum corneum kungenza isikhumba sibe nzima futhi some. I-Commercial sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate iyisisombululo samanzi esingenambala, esingenaphunga, esine-alkaline esibonisa ngale, futhi i-hygroscopicity yayo iphakeme kakhulu kunaleyo ye-glycerin, i-propylene glycol, ne-sorbitol. Uma umswakama ohlobene ungama-65%, i-hygroscopicity iphezulu njenge-56% ngemva kwezinsuku ezingu-20, futhi i-hygroscopicity ingafinyelela ku-60% ngemva kwezinsuku ezingu-30; futhi ngaphansi kwezimo ezifanayo, i-hygroscopicity ye-glycerin, i-propylene glycol, ne-sorbitol ingu-40% ngemva kwezinsuku ezingu-30. , 30%, 10%. I-sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate isetshenziswa ikakhulukazi njenge-humectant ne-conditioner, isetshenziswa ku-lotions, ama-shrink lotions, ama-creams, ama-lotions, futhi ibuye isetshenziswe ku-toothpaste nama-shampoos.

(4) I-hyaluronic acid
Futhi i-hyaluronic acid iqinile emhlophe e-amorphous ekhishwe ezicutshini zezilwane. Kuyiyunithi ephindayo ye-disaccharide ye-(1→3)-2-acetylamino-2deoxy-D(1→4)-OB3-D glucuronic acid I-polymer ehlanganisiwe inesisindo samangqamuzana esihlobene se-200,000 kuya ku-1 million. I-Hyaluronic acid iyi-moisturizer yemvelo ye-biochemical enezinto ezinamandla zokuthambisa, eziphephile futhi ezingenabuthi, ngaphandle kokucasuka esikhumbeni somuntu. I-Hyaluronic acid iyancibilika emanzini kodwa ayincibiliki ezincibilikisini eziphilayo. Ngenxa yokwelula nokuvuvukala kwesakhiwo samangqamuzana ohlelweni lwaso lwesisombululo se-aqueous, isenayo i-viscosity ephezulu ekugxilweni okuphansi, futhi ingabopha inani elikhulu lamanzi, ngakho-ke inezici ezinhle kakhulu zokuthambisa, i-viscoelasticity ephezulu kanye nokungena okuphezulu.
I-Hyaluronic acid okwamanje iwuhlobo lokuthambisa olusebenza kahle kakhulu ezimonyoni. Kwezimonyo, inganikeza umphumela wokuthambisa esikhumbeni, yenze isikhumba sinwebeke futhi sibushelelezi, futhi ibambezele ukuguga kwesikhumba. Imikhiqizo eminingi ye-hydrogel yenkampani iqukethe i-hyaluronic acid noma isetshenziswa ngokuhlanganiswa nayo, futhi ithole impendulo enhle ngemuva kokwethulwa emakethe.

(5) I-collagen ene-Hydrolyzed
I-Collagen ibizwa nangokuthi amaprotheni e-glial. Kuyiprotheyini emhlophe ene-fibrous eyenza isikhumba sesilwane, uqwanga, imisipha, amathambo, imithambo yegazi, i-cornea nezinye izicubu ezixhumeneyo. Ngokuvamile kubala ngaphezu kuka-30% wengqikithi yamaprotheni ezilwane. Kusendabeni eyomile yesikhumba nezicubu zesikhumba. I-Collagen yenza cishe ama-90%.
I-Collagen iyisakhi samaprotheni esiyisisekelo esakha isikhumba sesilwane nemisipha. Inobudlelwano obuhle nesikhumba nezinwele. Isikhumba nezinwele zimunca kahle, zivumela ukuthi zingene ngaphakathi kwezinwele, njll., zibonise Ukubambisana okuhle nokusebenza kahle. Futhi ngemva kwe-hydrolysis, uchungechunge lwe-polypeptide lwe-collagen luqukethe amaqembu e-hydrophilic afana ne-amino, i-carboxyl ne-hydroxyl, engabonisa ukugcinwa okuhle komswakama esikhumbeni. I-hydrolyzed collagen nayo inemiphumela yokunciphisa amabala esikhumba futhi isuse imibimbi ebangelwa imisebe ye-ultraviolet. Ngakho-ke, indima ye-collagen e-hydrolyzed ibonakala ikakhulukazi ekufudumeni, ukuhambisana, ukumhlophe kwama-freckle, ukulwa nokuguga njalonjalo. Ezicubu zezilwane, i-collagen iyinto engancibiliki emanzini, kodwa inamandla amakhulu okubopha amanzi. I-hydrolysis ye-collagen ingenziwa ngesenzo se-asidi, i-alkali noma i-enzyme, futhi i-collagen e-soluble hydrolyzed ingatholakala, esetshenziswa kabanzi kumikhiqizo yezimonyo nemikhiqizo yobuhle bezokwelapha.

Ezinye izinhlobo zama-humectants zifaka i-chitin kanye nokuphuma kwayo, ama-humectants e-glucose ester, nama-humectants ezitshalo afana nenhlaba ne-algae.